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Coorabie farm-stay to Cape Le Grand National Park via the Nullarbor Plain

Updated: Apr 17, 2018


Link to a few pictures here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3mZlIG1OLvL68FFo1




April 1st 2018 – Easter Sunday, camped in the middle of nowhere so the Easter bunny failed to find us last night, much to the displeasure of two little excited girls. Zoe and Sophie had to make do with the two store bought chocolate eggs resting in the fridge, we are hoping they won’t be damaged by this experience 😊

As we were camped by the side of a small road in the middle of nowhere we managed to get up and get going early today, down to Fowlers Bay, a very small coastal township with a caravan park, coffee shop, wonderful beach & amazing sand dunes and another long jetty claiming excellent fishing. We caught a couple of Leatherjackets but certainly not enough for a feed.


And then onwards to Coorabie Farm for a couple of days, a delightful farm-stay at the eastern edge of the Nullarbor plain. We used the time here to cook a big batch of pasta sauce, using up our vegetables so we didn’t have to dispose of them at the WA Quarantine station at the WA border the next day. Australia has some odd interstate quarantine rules and we have fallen foul of these in the past and had to dump all fruit, vegetables, honey and firewood in the past ☹

While at Coorabie we took a quick side trip down to local beach and rock outcrop, Mexican Hat Rock, we fished a little and caught nothing – seem to be a pattern emerging in our fishing exploits.




And so, on Tuesday 3rd April we finally started the long drive west to Esperance and our next real destination at Cape Le Grand National Park. We visited Cape Le Grand on our last trip in September 2016, staying at Lucky Bay but being totally entranced by a visit to Little Hellfire Bay so we were determined to visit again this time round.

The Nullarbor plain [literal translation is “Treeless Plain”] is often described as a boring but necessary drive between east and west, approx. 1200 kilometres of featureless Australian scrub. It certainly is a bit of drive but anything but featureless; there are cave systems all across the limestone plains, massive cliffs alongside the great Australian Bight forming possibly the longest unbroken cliffs anywhere in the world, quaint roadhouses in the middle of nowhere supplying the passing motorists with fuel and meat pies [no fresh fruit or veg though] and big country views with big skies.






We stopped at Nullarbor Roadhouse, I bought a coffee [mistake] and sent a birthday greeting to my sister Jan in the UK [even though it was 2am there], we visited a cave system then drove to admire the coastal views while moving westwards. There is a small straight stretch of road along the way [146kms for some peculiar reason – but the longest straight piece of road in Australia] and arrived at Balladonia Roadhouse, famous for issuing a littering fine to NASA after bits of Skylab fell out of orbit and landed nearby. There was a little museum showing bits and pieces of Skylab and more interestingly some local history showing the opening up of the country by Europeans pushing further away from the coast and into the newly discovered goldfields in the area. A good little stop.



We had planned to take a small dirt track down to Cape Le Grand, the Balladonia track was unfortunately closed so we had a 400km detour via Norseman and Esperance, but this did have the added advantage that we were able to shop and add some fresh vegetables 😊. After a 600km day on the road and a quick overnight stop at Condingup, we arrived at Cape Le Grand Beach camp-site. It is delightful, the sort of place where the beaches are endless white sand, turquoise crystal-clear water and sunsets blazing orange and red etched into your memory for life. The pictures don’t tell the full story of just how stunningly beautiful this part of the world is, great granite outcrops both onshore and forming island chains just offshore, coastal heath-land full of bird-life and kangaroos, sublime un-spoilt beaches. We may never leave.



Regards Roy, Helen, Sophie & Zoe


Post Script Sunday evening, 8th April

This morning I thought these local beaches and bays were absolutely stunning, and then we had a day trip out to Orleans Bay, Little Wharton Beach and Table Island. It’s impossible to describe just how incredibly beautiful this stretch of coastline really is. It’s awesome, and if you ever get the chance to come and see this part of the world you really should. We took heaps of pictures but I don’t think we captured the scenery well enough, it is stunning.



Wharton Bay, Orleans Bay pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/tQgNm5k5DlMAr8W62



In the words of one of my favourite songs “just get here if you can” by Oleta Adams

Link to youtube : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2-yUQS70Kc

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